The Michelin guide lists 426 restaurants in Paris that include everything from ‘worth a look’ to 3 Michelin stars, which is of course one of the highest awards a restaurant can get. Le Servan is said to have “fresh and spontaneous cuisine” from the two sisters who have renovated the space. Our experience was mostly a favorable one, with the food being quite delightful (mostly) and the servers being incredibly friendly and accommodating. We only ate there once, and if the menu shifts on a regular basis, then it may not be fair to evaluate the dishes as much as the creativity and innovation behind them. Either way, this was an experience I would highly recommend. On to the Food.
Pork Ravioli
These were wonderful bites, with the pork having almost a ‘dim sum’ type texture, but distinctly French flavor, that hits the taste buds with all kinds of pleasant flavors. I don’t want to deconstruct it, because that will take a little of the magic out of it, but we began with a taste of the creativity and innovation we were hoping to taste. This helps to support the chef’s tendencies which she describes as French by way of southeast Asia.
The Summer Truffle Sirloin and the Crispy Pork Breast
These were out main courses, and both of them came with a commanding and flavorful presence. The sirloin sauce had a fearless and sinewy characteristic about it without being overbearing, and it went nicely with the big cabernet wine we ordered with the meal. The crispy pork breast was a thing of beauty, and was like no other we had tasted before. It was sublimely tender which when topped off with the crunch of the skin made for a decadent bite. Sadly, I have to report that the sirloin seemed to have had a lot of gristle in it, or something that I had a hard time fully chewing. So a lot of the sirloin ended up in my napkin. But I chose not to let that tarnish an otherwise beautiful meal and experience. I didn’t say anything to the waiters, and I probably should have, but as I said, I was really enjoying the meal, except for that.
Green Beans
Sometimes all the attention goes to the main course, and little attention is paid to the supporting cast. In this case, I didn’t want to overlook the green beans. It is difficult to make green beans flavorful and enticing because of texture and flavor. But Le Servan not only accepted the challenge, but scored an impressive goal with them. Adding lots of butter, cilantro, and chile beans, the green bean dish was elevated to something truly special. Even the hardcore opponents of green beans would have a hard time resisting.
The Bread and Butter
Instead of a baguette, Le Servan served slices from a loaf of fresh multigrain. This was bread at its finest with an unmistakable freshness and flavor that makes you think all you need for a great meal is that bread and some butter to go along with it. Speaking of butter, I had noticed that in a number of restaurants when they would bring you bread, they would not bring you butter. I thought this was odd, since some of the best butter in the world comes from France. Do French people really not eat butter on their bread at a restaurant. Being the ‘hard to shame’ American, I asked the waiter about this. And he said that of course French people are eating butter on their bread at home, but for some reason they don’t do it as much in a restaurant. I asked if everyone would ridicule us for asking for butter and he said that they would not, but I’m not sure I believe him. Anyway, French butter on French bread in a French restaurant in France just seems like it is something I should do, so I did, and I have no regrets or shame. It’s worth a little embarrassment to have a little butter on your bread for God’s sake!
The Cheese and Dessert
In the US we aren’t particularly concerned with making the food aesthetically pleasing. We’re more concerned with packing a lot of calories into a bite, and at most we want to get some flavor in it. At Michelin starred restaurants in the US there is a concern to make the food look good – dress it up like it’s going out for an opera, but this is not common with most restaurants. The goat cheese with the sugar reduction decorated with edible flowers called my attention to how the meal had been presented to us. I was reminded not to just looking for calories and flavor, but to also enjoy the beauty in a finely presented meal. For whatever reasons, flowers remind us of the beauty that life has to offer, and by placing them on top of a serving of goat cheese, I was invited to stop and take a moment and appreciate beauty o its own sake, not just as a way to deliver calories to body-machine.
The strawberry chile sorbet was a reminder that berries don’t have to just sit on the sideline with their passive tartness, they can also through some flavor punches as well. Those punches are cushioned with the cream that comes with them, but the drama that unfolds on the tastebuds while the two of them are dancing around as you’re eating this dessert was a way to keep the experience alive and well. you finish the meal on an energetic note, that tells you your day is not done, there is excitement in the air!
Food can be such a personal journey, and it can tell interesting stories when we listen to those who are looking out for the details, and expressing their own artistic values through the food they prepare. Le Servan delivered not only a compelling set of flavorful experiences, but it did so with an eye toward the beautiful, reminding us that sometimes you need to stop and enjoy the flowers on top of your goat cheese.